Runway Hair Report Straight From Milan

So, it’s no surprise ‘hair’ that the style guru – Guido – will be the coveted hair master, for all things runway! And he has done it again, but this time – in Milan (I <3 Italy), and of course – your StyleMpress, has the low down on the lucky seven, which spotlight: Jil Sander, Dolce & Gabbana, Albera Ferretti, Versus, Bottega Veneta, Prada & Versace!

For Sanders, rich simplicity and style – low ponytail – was the focus of the first womenswear collection, in 8 years – in Milan. The overall look? Pure, pristine, and serene – exuding a sense of what Guido calls, “a modern sensibility.”

Its hard to wear hair this straight down sometimes, but with this pony it becomes more of a look. And this pony’s a bit more styled than your usual tight low pony, as dropping the elastic down gives it more softness and a different feel. It’s also fun to see super straight hair in a way that sort of makes it new again. Overall, I think the look is very pure and has a modern sensibility, but it’s still sexy at the same time.” -Guido

Get the Look…

  • Apply satinwear 02 prepping blow-dry lotion to damp hair and blow-dry straight one section at a time.
  • Create a clean center part.
  • Flat iron hair until stick straight.
  • Gather hair at the nape of the neck (covering ears) and secure tightly with elastic, then slide elastic down the hair about an inch.
  • Apply shine flash 02 glistening mist for a light all-over shine.

For Versace – Guido kept it natural, easy, and un-done — unlike what he typically creates for Versace! The inspiration for this breezy beach hair look, comes from Dontatella Versace’s light, loose looks – which were a total departure from her last dark, borderline gothic collection. The models looked as if they were ready to hit the beach – not without a ‘summer’s breeze’ appealing hair to match!

I’d describe the look today at Versace as effortless, very dusty – think of the desert and the beach. It’s not one of the usual “done-up” styles I’ve created for Donatella in the past few seasons, as she really wanted a natural look this season. The ideal length for this look is hair that falls to the collar-bone or little shorter, and it has movement, body, and thickness, with a matte finish. Overall, this is a very cool-girl look, it should feel sexy and uncomplicated.”

Want the Look?

  1. Apply guts 10 root targeted volume spray foam to damp hair and roughly blow-dry with fingers, scrunching hair as you dry.
  2. Twist hair up into a bun to set it and mist with powder refresh 01 aerosol hair powder/dry shampoo for texture.
  3. Take hair out of the bun, spray more powder refresh for added texture and a matte finish.

Prada awed with “wispy bangs” to the front, that gave it a “tomboyish” feel. Chic, elegant, yet wearable – fitting to Miuccia Prada’s collection and most certainly to the reality of life.

The collection is very sophisticated, yet designed to be wearable for a woman in today’s times, and Miuccia wanted to ‘break the mold’ of the hair to match the clothing in this same way. So we incorporated the idea of the woman being a little bit boyish. Designers always like when a girl’s got character, but when you pull an updo like this twist straight back in front it immediately looks very elegant, so adding the wispy bangs helps to break it up a little bit.” -Guido

Here’s how to get the Look:

  1. Apply thickening lotion 06 all-over body builder to slightly damp hair roughly blow-dry.
  2. Smooth hair by brushing with a boar-bristle brush.
  3. Spray with quick tease 15 backcombing finishing spray, concentrating on the roots, to give hair texture, grip, and slight height at the crown when putting it up and then lightly brush out again.
  4. Gather hair up in the back, and then form a french twist shape by beginning to twist at the crown of the head and then rolling in.
  5. Instead of tucking the ends in at the end of the roll, leave the ends of the hair over the forehead to appear like bangs and secure twist with pins.
  6. Arrange the “bangs” on the forehead and then spray entire style with forceful 23 super strength finishing spray to maintain the shape and set the style.

Versace’s super slick, ultra shiny, stick-straight ponytails – are one of my faves, which complimented the collections 1960′s focus in bright colors, bold prints and mini-dresses.

We did a very long, very tightly pulled back pony today at Versus, creating the intensely shiny finish by using both Redken hardwear 16 gel and glass 01 serum. It really seems to me both sporty and tough, but is also very precise and minimalist, which goes nicely with the clothing.” -Guido

Get You Look Here:

  1. Start with dry hair blow-dried straight, and apply hardwear 16 super strong gel to small sections of hair throughout the crown.
  2. Right after applying the gel, gather hair into a tight ponytail right at the crown of the head and secure with an elastic.
  3. Take a small section of hair out from under the ponytail and wrap around the base to cover the elastic. Secure with a pin.
  4. Apply glass 01 smoothing serum all over the head to smooth and add shine.
  5. Flatiron entire ponytail in sections until stick straight.
  6. Finish with forceful 23 super strength finishing spray on the crown and pony to catch any fly-away’s for a sleek finish.

 For Alberta Ferretti, Guido began the show by creating a glossy, flowing hairstyle – a slicked-back all-over wet look, reminiscent of the New York Fashion shows! Romantic, cream and teal colored looks in chiffon and lace — “fit for a Goddess.”

We created a bit of a wet look today, with the hair combed back yet still soft and feminine. I started with water of course, spraying down the hair and then right away added tons of guts 10, combing back but not so severely, as keeping movement in the hair is key for this look. It feels very light and liquid, like they’re like goddesses coming out of the water.”

Create the Look:

  1. Apply guts 10 root targeted volume spray foam generously to damp hair from roots to ends.
  2. Comb back with a wide toothed comb, taking care that it’s not slicked straight back to keep some of the natural movement.
  3. Clip hair behind the ears as well as to the top of the head and let air dry, this will create a bit of lift.
  4. Whne hair is dry, remove clips and apply and forceful 23 super strength finishing spray to hold the shape.
  5. Layer shine flash 02 glistening mist on over the forceful 23 for an intensely shiny finish.

“Messy knots” – was ultimately very feminine at the Bottega Veneta Spring 2013 show. Pretty, wearable and delicate., like the light, floral collection itself – done-up and styled, yet loose and wispy as if a few pieces had fallen out as this woman went about her day. I love it ladies…

The look at Bottega — was a very soft and pretty, center-parted with a dry texture and loosely knotted with a few wisps that escape. The inspiration is a little 70′s and also Victorian.”

Get This Must-Have Look:

  1. Roughly blow-dry hair with a diffuser.
  2. Create a clean center part and apply powder grip 03 mattifying hair powder at the roots, and then gently backcomb random pieces.
  3. Gather hair into a low ponytail at the nape of the neck and tie with elastic.
  4. Backcomb the ponytail with a boar-bristle brush, twist into a low messy chignon and pin with a few pins; leave some wispy pieces out of the style in front.
  5. Finish with powder refresh 01 aerosol hair powder/dry shampoo particularly around the crown for added dry, airy texture.

Guido created a light, loose updo that put an emphasis on the brightly patterned scarves worn at the Spring 2013 Dolce & Gabbana show. The clothing, inspired by a girl in the Sicilian islands in the summertime, definitely warranted the beautiful, beachy hairstyle Guido created to match.

The updo today is not really a twist, not a knot, and it’s all about the scarf and working around the scarf. In my mind it’s how a Sicilian woman would just quickly pin her hair up and then tie on a scarf. You can still see the hairline which is what keeps it from looking too severe, and there’s a little bit of height but its not too exaggerated. It’s a very light, summery look, taking some inspiration from the sixties with a little Riviera feeling, but it’s not pastiched.”

Create the Look:

  1. Apply aerate 08 all-over bodifying cream-mousse from roots to ends to create some volume with a little texture when you blow-dry.
  2. Blow-dry straight back so that there’s no part.
  3. Tie on the silk headscarf folded about two inches thick, leaving about an inch of hair from the hairline, knotting scarf on the bottom to the side.
  4. Pin hair up into a “rough updo” that’s almost a twist or a knot and works with the hair length and type, and pin with open fasteners.

Photo: Redken