Sep 232012

We once again caught up with the amazing Kevin James Bennett! He admits to being a makeup junkie (to the core) — in a cosmetic nirvana because the trends for Fall/Winter 2012 — offers no “re-boot of the same old “natural” look.”Kevin created 3 looks — with distinct ‘fashion forward’ edge, which retained a modern elegance through careful editing and specific placement.
These are not looks for the cosmetically faint of heart. But if you’re ready to break free from the boredom of a natural look – this is your golden ticket to some highly fashionable makeup magic.
Look #1 Bright-n-Smoky
The typical “smoky eye” becomes a modern, color saturated focal point of unexpected elegance by layering tones of blue and tempering them with a wash of metallic as a finishing touch…

Step 1. With a small fluff brush, apply a dynamic cool matte sky blue shadow to the entire eye lid, blended into the crease and continued under the lower eyelash line.
Step 2. On the outer third of the lid and in the eye crease, blend a cool, midnight blue toward the center of the eye until it disappears into the lighter blue eye shadow.
Step 3. To intensify the pop of color and introduce the metallic effect, apply a translucent layer of shimmering teal pigment, distributed delicately with a brush over the entire shadowed area and below the eye along the lash line.
Step 4. Define with a cream liner in black along the upper eyelashes and along the waterline of the lower eyelid.
Step 5. Apply at least 2 coats of mascara to upper lashes and one coat to lower eyelashes. A set of flirty false lashes can be added to the upper lashes to create even more drama but are not obligatory.
Step 6. Blend a soft peachy blush with powder bronzer to add depth and warmth to the face that will contrast with the cool blue tones on the eyes.
Step 7. Shape and define lips with a nude pencil a few shades deeper than your natural lip color.
Step 8. Finish with a high shine gloss tinted a sheer rosy shade to amplify the lips natural color.

 Look #2 The New Nude
One of the hottest fashion trends is “ombre”. I thought it would be fun to kick it up a notch and do an entire face using this tonal technique. My color of choice was adobe because it rides the line between warm and cool so beautifully and looks great on almost any complexion.

Step 1. Prep the eyelid with an eyeshadow primer, foundation or concealer.
Step 2. The finished eye makeup should have a subtle glow, not a shimmer, so we’re doing the application backwards to control the amount of shine. We start with a metal powder in a burnished gold on the lid only, from outer to inner corner. Apply it sparingly and then blend it well with a clean brush. Use a small amount on the lower lash line and blend well also. Make sure to include the tear duct area.
Step 3. Next, we layer a rich adobe matte eyeshadow over all the areas we applied the gold and blend well. Now we exaggerate the shape of the eye with the more adobe shadow, blending into and slightly above the crease, extending past the outside corner and generously under the lower lash line. Blend all of your edges very well.
Step 4. Line the upper lid only with a very dark brown or soft black liner. Keep the liner as tight as possible to the natural lash line and try to fill in the spaces between the lashes with it also.
Step 5. Multiple coats of black mascara on the upper lashes only. I don’t suggest false eyelashes with this look unless you are seriously lash challenged. The focus here is the color, not the lashes.
Step 6. Use the same adobe eyeshadow, cut with a little loose powder, as a blush/ bronzer on all the high points of the face (cheeks, hairline and base of chin). Make sure all edges are blended VERY well.
Step 7. Condition lips with a non-shiny balm (I like using pure shea butter) and reach for the adobe eyeshadow – yes, I said the eyeshadow. With a lip brush, apply the eyeshadow as a “lipstick”. The lip conditioner should keep it from grabbing. Top it with an additional coat of the non-shiny lip balm.

Look #3 Glamour Goth
Going “gothic” doesn’t have to be ghoulish. Featuring a super strong “gothic inspired” eye makeup framed against a totally nude background not only makes a statement …it’s unexpectedly glamourous.
Step 1. Foundation and concealer application need to be flawless for this look. Your foundation MUST match your jawline and neck perfectly. Take extra time to make sure you have everything evened out.
Step 2. This look calls for a velvety matte finish on the skin, so remember to set with loose or pressed powder.
Step 3. Surround the entire eye socket (upper and lower) with a rich burgundy red eyeshadow. Make it intentionally “round” looking.
Step 4. “Cut” your crease from the inner tear duct to the outside corner of your upper lid with mate black eyeshadow and a small, precision shadow brush. Keep the shape as round as possible, exaggerating beyond the outer crease of the lid.
Step 5. Use the same black eyeshadow and apply to ONLY the outer 1/4 of the upper lid and blend inward with a clean eyeshadow brush.
Step 6. Create a rather thick, strong line on the upper lid with black cream or gel liner. Use the same liner on the waterline (inside) of the lower lid – NOT below the lashes.
Step 7. There’s never too much mascara with this look, so multiple coats on top and bottom lashes.
Step 8. Add the slightest amount of bronzer to barely define the cheeks.
Step 9. Instead of lipstick, I mixed a beige loose pigment powder with a little lip balm to create a glowing, not glossy, nude lip.